How to buy a used car that’s guaranteed to last a long time

May 24, 2008 By Leave a Comment

If the cost of a new car makes you hesitate, consider that a certified pre-owned car will cost much less and give trouble-free service for a long time.

Pre-owned is another name for a used car, according to the Kelley Blue Book, but a certified pre-owned vehicle has had a detailed inspection and comes with an extended warranty.

The certification process has removed one of the major drawbacks to buying a used car or truck: uncertainty about its mechanical condition.

Vehicle dealerships realized a few years ago that they needed a special category to draw attention to the cream puffs on their lots. The certified program works for them and for buyers.

Most manufacturers offer certification up to five years from the date the car was originally sold. Certified vehicles come with the remainder of their factory warranty plus a predetermined extended warranty, usually up to 50,000 miles. The warranty on luxury vehicles may extend to 100,000 miles.

Buying pre-owned will save several thousand dollars over the price of a new vehicle, but it costs more to buy one, anywhere from $300 to $3,200 over the price of one that isn’t certified.

Always ask who is certifying the car. Is it the manufacturer or the dealership? The manufacturer guarantee is more valuable and will be honored by dealerships in other cities and states.

Certified programs are proliferating and work for those who want to drive a near-new car with a solid warranty. Some 1.7 million certified pre-owned vehicles were sold in 2007.

Filed Under: Auto Tips Tagged With:

Winter Driving Tips

February 9, 2008 By Leave a Comment

Snow, high winds, fog and rain pose threats to motorists throughout February and March, months when safe driving and well-maintained vehicles take on even greater importance, according to the Insurance Information Institute (I.I.I.)

“Drivers should always avoid speeding and keep their front and rear windshields clear—but these safety measures are critical as we move deeper into the winter season,” said Michael Barry, the vice president of media relations for the I.I.I.

Indeed, “driving too fast for conditions” was ranked second (21.3 percent), behind only “failure to keep in proper lane or running off road (28.5 percent),” as the behaviors causing the most fatal crashes in the U.S. in 2006, according to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA). In this same category, “overcorrecting and over-steering” was in sixth place (4.2 percent), and “swerving or avoiding due to wind, slippery surface (3.7 percent)” came in eighth on the list of contributing factors to fatal crashes. The NHTSA’s figures include incidents involving motorcycles.

In order to avoid a potentially dangerous situation, the I.I.I. offers the following late winter driving tips:

  • Give yourself enough time to arrive at your destination. Trips can take longer during winter than other times of the year, especially if you encounter storm conditions or icy roads.
  • Bring a cell phone so that those awaiting your arrival can get in touch with you if you are very late. But avoid the temptation of using the cell phone while driving, as it can be a dangerous distraction.
  • Drive slowly because accelerating, stopping and turning all take longer on snow-covered roads.
  • Leave more distance than usual between your vehicle and the one just ahead of you, giving yourself at least 10 seconds to come to a complete stop. Cars and motorcycles usually need at least 3 seconds to halt completely when traveling on dry pavement.
  • Be careful when driving over bridges, as well as roadways rarely exposed to sunlight—they are often icy when other areas are not.
  • Avoid sudden stops and quick direction changes.
  • Be sure to keep your gas tank full. Stormy weather or traffic delays may force you to change routes or turn back. A fuller gas tank also averts the potential freezing of your car’s gas-line.
  • Keep windshield and windows clear. Drivers in cold-weather states should have a snow brush or scraper in their vehicle at all times. Your car’s defroster can be supplemented by wiping the windows with a clean cloth to improve visibility.
  • Do not activate your cruise control when driving on a slippery surface.
  • Do not warm up a vehicle in an enclosed area, such as a garage.
  • Keep your tires properly inflated and remember that good tread on your tires is essential to safe winter driving.
  • Check your exhaust pipe to make sure it is clear. A blocked pipe could cause a leakage of carbon monoxide gas into your car when the vehicle’s engine is running.
  • Monitor the weather conditions at your destination before beginning your trip. If conditions look as though they are going to be too hazardous, just stay home.

“One of the upsides of the arrival of February and March is that the days are getting longer as spring approaches,” noted Barry. “And federal studies indicate that December and January traditionally have the most total crashes. Nevertheless, the potential hazards of late winter are particularly challenging as drivers in many states must deal not only with snow and ice on some days but heavy winds and rain on others.”

Spring officially arrives on March 20, 2008.

Filed Under: Auto Tips

Understanding Auto Financing

January 28, 2008 By Leave a Comment

With prices averaging more than $20,000 for a new vehicle and $9,500 for a four-year-old vehicle, most consumers need financing or leasing to acquire a vehicle. In some cases, buyers use “direct lending:” they obtain a loan directly from a finance company, bank or credit union. In direct lending, a buyer agrees to pay the amount financed, plus an agreed-upon finance charge, over a period of time. Once a buyer and a vehicle dealership enter into a contract and the buyer agrees to a vehicle price, the buyer uses the loan proceeds from the direct lender to pay the dealership for the vehicle. Consumers also may arrange for a vehicle loan over the Internet.

The most common type of vehicle financing, however, is “dealership financing.” In this arrangement, a buyer and a dealership enter into a contract where the buyer agrees to pay the amount financed, plus an agreed-upon finance charge, over a period of time. The dealership may retain the contract, but usually sells it to an assignee (such as a bank, finance company or credit union), which services the account and collects the payments.

For the vehicle buyer, dealership financing offers:

1. Convenience – Dealers offer buyers vehicles and financing in one place.

2. Multiple financing relationships – The dealership’s relationships with a variety of banks and finance companies mean they can offer buyers a range of financing options.

3. Special programs – From time to time, dealerships may offer manufacturer-sponsored, low-rate programs to buyers.

This booklet explains dealership financing and can serve as a guide as you evaluate your own financial situation before you finance a new or used vehicle. It will also help you understand vehicle leasing.

Image of a father with his son in his arms.

BEFORE YOU ARRIVE AT A DEALERSHIP

Do some research:

  • Determine how much you can afford to finance and spend on a monthly payment by using the “Monthly Spending Plan” worksheet in this booklet.
  • Get a copy of your credit report so you are aware of what creditors will see. Errors or accurate negative information can impact your ability to get credit and/or your finance rate.
  • Identify your transportation needs.
  • Check auto buying guides, the Internet and other sources to find out the price range and other information for the vehicle you want to buy.
  • Compare current finance rates being offered by contacting various banks, credit unions or other lenders. Compare bank quotes and dealer quotes; there may be restrictions on the most attractive rates or terms from any credit source.

WHAT HAPPENS WHEN YOU APPLY FOR FINANCING

Most dealerships have a Finance and Insurance (F&I) Department, which provides one-stop shopping for financing. The F&I Department manager will ask you to complete a credit application. Information on this application may include: your name; Social Security number; date of birth; current and previous addresses and length of stay; current and previous employers and length of employment; occupation; sources of income; total gross monthly income; and financial information on existing credit accounts.

The dealership will obtain a copy of your credit report, which contains information about current and past credit obligations, your payment record and data from public records (for example, a bankruptcy filing obtained from court documents). For each account, the credit report shows your account number, the type and terms of the account, the credit limit, the most recent balance and the most recent payment. The comments section describes the current status of your account, including the creditor’s summary of past due information and any legal steps that may have been taken to collect.

Dealers typically sell your contract to an assignee, such as a bank, finance company or credit union. The dealership submits your credit application to one or more of these potential assignees to determine their willingness to purchase your contract from the dealer.

These finance companies or other potential assignees will usually evaluate your credit application using automated techniques such as credit scoring, where a variety of factors, like your credit history, length of employment, income and expenses may be weighted and scored.

Since the bank, finance company or credit union does not deal directly with the prospective vehicle purchaser, it bases its evaluation upon what appears on the individual’s credit report and score, the completed credit application, and the terms of the sale, such as the amount of the down payment. Each finance company or other potential assignee decides whether it is willing to buy the contract, notifies the dealership of its decision and, if applicable, offers the dealership a wholesale rate at which the assignee will buy the contract, often called the “buy rate.”

Your dealer may be able to offer manufacturer incentives, such as reduced finance rates or cash back on certain models. You may see these specials advertised in your area. Make sure you ask your dealer if the model you are interested in has any special financing offers or rebates. Generally, these discounted rates are not negotiable, may be limited by a consumer’s credit history, and are available only for certain models, makes or model-year vehicles.

When there are no special financing offers available, you can negotiate the annual percentage rate (APR) and the terms for payment with the dealership, just as you negotiate the price of the vehicle. The APR that you negotiate with the dealer is usually higher than the wholesale rate described earlier. This negotiation can occur before or after the dealership accepts and processes your credit application.

WHAT INFLUENCES YOUR APR

Your credit history, current finance rates, competition, market conditions and special offers are among the factors that influence your APR.

WHAT ABOUT A CO-SIGNER?

You may be allowed by the creditor to have a co-signer sign the finance contract with you in order to make up for any deficiencies in your credit history. A co-signer assumes equal responsibility for the contract, and the account history will be reflected on the co-signer’s credit history as well. For this reason, you should exercise caution if asked to co-sign for someone else. Since many co-signers are eventually asked to repay the obligation, be sure you can afford to do so before agreeing to be someone’s co-signer.

SHOULD I LEASE A VEHICLE?

If you are considering leasing, there are several things to keep in mind. The monthly payments on a lease are usually lower than monthly finance payments on the same vehicle because you are paying for the vehicle’s expected depreciation during the lease term, plus a rent charge, taxes, and fees. But at the end of a lease, you must return the vehicle unless the lease lets you buy it and you agree to the purchase costs and terms. To be sure the lease terms fit your situation: Consider the beginning, middle and end of lease costs. Compare different lease offers and terms, including mileage limits, and also consider how long you may want to keep the vehicle.

When you lease a vehicle, you have the right to use it for an agreed number of months and miles. At lease end, you may return the vehicle, pay any end-of-lease fees and charges, and “walk away.” You may buy the vehicle for the additional agreed-upon price if you have a purchase option, which is a typical provision in retail lease contracts. Keep in mind that in most cases, you will be responsible for an early termination charge if you end the lease early. That charge could be substantial.

Another important consideration is the mileage limit – most standard leases are calculated based on a specified number of miles you can drive, typically 15,000 or fewer per year. You can negotiate a higher mileage limit, but you will normally have an increased monthly payment since the vehicle’s depreciation will be greater during your lease term. If you exceed the mileage limit set in the lease agreement, you’ll probably have to pay additional charges when you return the vehicle.

When you lease, you are also responsible for excess wear and damage, and missing equipment. You must also service the vehicle in accordance with the manufacturer’s recommendations.

Finally, you will have to maintain insurance that meets the leasing company’s standards. Be sure to find out the cost of this insurance. “Keys to Vehicle Leasing,” a publication of the Federal Reserve Board, contains more information about leasing. You can request a copy from:

Publications Services
Board of Governors of the Federal Reserve System
Mail Stop 127 Washington, DC 20551

This brochure is also available on the Web at: www.federalreserve.gov/pubs/leasing

Image of a couple talking to a car salesman

DETERMINING HOW MUCH YOU CAN AFFORD

Before financing or leasing a vehicle, make sure you have enough income to cover your current monthly living expenses. Then, finance new purchases only when you can afford to take on a new monthly payment. The “Monthly Spending Plan” is a tool to help determine an affordable payment for you.

The only time to consider taking on additional debt is when you’re spending less each month than you take home. The additional debt load should not cut into the amount you’ve committed to saving for emergencies and other top priorities or life goals. Saving money for a down payment or trading in a vehicle can reduce the amount you need to finance. In some cases, your trade-in vehicle will take care of the down payment on your vehicle.

Filed Under: Auto Tips, Finance

Tips on Buying A New Car

January 22, 2008 By Leave a Comment

Buying a new car is second only to a home as the most expensive purchase many consumers make. According to the National Automobile Dealers Association, the average price of a new car sold in the United States as of June 1998 was $23,480. That’s why it’s important to know how to make a smart deal.

Buying Your New Car
Think about what car model and options you want and how much you’re willing to spend. Do some research. You’ll be less likely to feel pressured into making a hasty or expensive decision at the showroom and more likely to get a better deal.

Consider these suggestions:

  • Check publications at a library or bookstore, or on the Internet, that discuss new car features and prices. These may provide information on the dealer’s costs for specific models and options.
  • Shop around to get the best possible price by comparing models and prices in ads and at dealer showrooms. You also may want to contact car-buying services and broker-buying services to make comparisons.
  • Plan to negotiate on price. Dealers may be willing to bargain on their profit margin, often between 10 and 20 percent. Usually, this is the difference between the manufacturer’s suggested retail price (MSRP) and the invoice price.

Because the price is a factor in the dealer’s calculations regardless of whether you pay cash or finance your car — and also affects your monthly payments — negotiating the price can save you money.

  • Consider ordering your new car if you don’t see what you want on the dealer’s lot. This may involve a delay, but cars on the lot may have options you don’t want — and that can raise the price. However, dealers often want to sell their current inventory quickly, so you may be able to negotiate a good deal if an in-stock car meets your needs.

Learning the Terms
Negotiations often have a vocabulary of their own. Here are some terms you may hear when you’re talking price.

  • Invoice Price is the manufacturer’s initial charge to the dealer. This usually is higher than the dealer’s final cost because dealers receive rebates, allowances, discounts, and incentive awards. Generally, the invoice price should include freight (also known as destination and delivery). If you’re buying a car based on the invoice price (for example, “at invoice,” “$100 below invoice,” “two percent above invoice”), and if freight is already included, make sure freight isn’t added again to the sales contract.
  • Base Price is the cost of the car without options, but includes standard equipment and factory warranty. This price is printed on the Monroney sticker.
  • Monroney Sticker Price (MSRP) shows the base price, the manufacturer’s installed options with the manufacturer’s suggested retail price, the manufacturer’s transportation charge, and the fuel economy (mileage). Affixed to the car window, this label is required by federal law, and may be removed only by the purchaser.
  • Dealer Sticker Price, usually on a supplemental sticker, is the Monroney sticker price plus the suggested retail price of dealer-installed options, such as additional dealer markup (ADM) or additional dealer profit (ADP), dealer preparation, and undercoating.

Financing Your New Car
If you decide to finance your car, be aware that the financing obtained by the dealer, even if the dealer contacts lenders on your behalf, may not be the best deal you can get. Contact lenders directly. Compare the financing they offer you with the financing the dealer offers you. Because offers vary, shop around for the best deal, comparing the annual percentage rate (APR) and the length of the loan. When negotiating to finance a car, be wary of focusing only on the monthly payment. The total amount you will pay depends on the price of the car you negotiate, the APR, and the length of the loan.

Sometimes, dealers offer very low financing rates for specific cars or models, but may not be willing to negotiate on the price of these cars. To qualify for the special rates, you may be required to make a large down payment. With these conditions, you may find that it’s sometimes more affordable to pay higher financing charges on a car that is lower in price or to buy a car that requires a smaller down payment.

Before you sign a contract to purchase or finance the car, consider the terms of the financing and evaluate whether it is affordable. Before you drive off the lot, be sure to have a copy of the contract that both you and the dealer have signed and be sure that all blanks are filled in.

Some dealers and lenders may ask you to buy credit insurance to pay off your loan if you should die or become disabled. Before you buy credit insurance, consider the cost, and whether it’s worthwhile. Check your existing policies to avoid duplicating benefits. Credit insurance is not required by federal law. If your dealer requires you to buy credit insurance for car financing, it must be included in the cost of credit. That is, it must be reflected in the APR. Your state Attorney General also may have requirements about credit insurance. Check with your state Insurance Commissioner or state consumer protection agency.

Trading in Your Old Car
Discuss the possibility of a trade-in only after you’ve negotiated the best possible price for your new car and after you’ve researched the value of your old car. Check the library for reference books or magazines that can tell you how much it is worth. This information may help you get a better price from the dealer. Though it may take longer to sell your car yourself, you generally will get more money than if you trade it in.

Considering a Service Contract
Service contracts that you may buy with a new car provide for the repair of certain parts or problems. These contracts are offered by manufacturers, dealers, or independent companies and may or may not provide coverage beyond the manufacturer’s warranty. Remember that a warranty is included in the price of the car while a service contract costs extra.

Before deciding to purchase a service contract, read it carefully and consider these questions:

  • What’s the difference between the coverage under the warranty and the coverage under the service contract?
  • What repairs are covered?
  • Is routine maintenance covered?
  • Who pays for the labor? The parts?
  • Who performs the repairs? Can repairs be made elsewhere?
  • How long does the service contract last?
  • What are the cancellation and refund policies?
Filed Under: Auto Tips, Finance

How to avoid auto repair rip-offs

January 14, 2008 By Leave a Comment

The best way to avoid auto repair rip-offs is to be prepared. Knowing how your vehicle works and how to identify common car problems is a good beginning. It’s also important to know how to select a good technician, the kinds of questions to ask, and your consumer rights.

According to the Federal Trade Commission (FTC), the American Automobile Association (AAA), and the National Association of Attorneys General (NAAG), this kind of information about your automobile may help you keep a lid on mechanical mistakes.

REPAIR INFORMATION

How to Choose a Repair Shop
What should I look for when choosing a repair shop?

  • Ask for recommendations from friends, family, and other people you trust. Look for an auto repair shop before you need one to avoid being rushed into a last-minute decision.
  • Shop around by telephone for the best deal, and compare warranty policies on repairs.
  • Ask to see current licenses if state or local law requires repair shops to be licensed or registered. Also, your state Attorney General’s office or local consumer protection agency may know whether there’s a record of complaints about a particular repair shop.
  • Make sure the shop will honor your vehicle’s warranty.

How to Choose a Technician
Is one technician better than another?

  • Look for shops that display various certifications – like an Automotive Service Excellence seal. Certification indicates that some or all of the technicians meet basic standards of knowledge and competence in specific technical areas. Make sure the certifications are current, but remember that certification alone is no guarantee of good or honest work.
  • Ask if the technician or shop has experience working on the same make or model vehicle as yours.

Repair Charges: Unlocking the Mystery
Before you arrange to have any work performed, ask how the shop prices its work. Some shops charge a flat rate for labor on auto repairs. This published rate is based on an independent or manufacturer’s estimate of the time required to complete repairs. Others charge on the basis of the actual time the technician worked on the repair.

If you need expensive or complicated repairs, or if you have questions about recommended work, consider getting a second opinion.

Find out if there will be a diagnostic charge if you decide to have the work performed elsewhere. Many repair shops charge for diagnostic time.

Shops that do only diagnostic work and do not sell parts or repairs may be able to give you an objective opinion about which repairs are necessary.

If you decide to get the work done, ask for a written estimate.

What should a written estimate include?

  • It should identify the condition to be repaired, the parts needed, and the anticipated labor charge. Make sure you get a signed copy.
  • It should state that the shop will contact you for approval before they do any work exceeding a specified amount of time or money. State law may require this.

What should I know about the parts to be repaired or replaced?

Parts are classified as:

  • New – These parts generally are made to original manufacturer’s specifications, either by the vehicle manufacturer or an independent company. Your state may require repair shops to tell you if non-original equipment will be used in the repair. Prices and quality of these parts vary.
  • Remanufactured, rebuilt and reconditioned – These terms generally mean the same thing: parts have been restored to a sound working condition. Many manufacturers offer a warranty covering replacement parts, but not the labor to install them.
  • Salvage – These are used parts taken from another vehicle without alteration. Salvage parts may be the only source for certain items, though their reliability is seldom guaranteed.

What do I need after the work is done?

  • Get a completed repair order describing the work done. It should list each repair, parts supplied, the cost of each part, labor charges, and the vehicle’s odometer reading when you brought the vehicle in as well as when the repair order was completed. Ask for all replaced parts. State law may require this.

Preventive Maintenance
What are the consequences of postponing maintenance?

  • Many parts on your vehicle are interrelated. Ignoring maintenance can lead to trouble: specific parts – or an entire system – can fail. Neglecting even simple routine maintenance, such as changing the oil or checking the coolant, can lead to poor fuel economy, unreliability, or costly breakdowns. It also may invalidate your warranty.

What maintenance guidelines should I follow to avoid costly repairs?

  • Follow the manufacturer’s maintenance schedule in your owner’s manual for your type of driving.
  • Some repair shops create their own maintenance schedules, which call for more frequent servicing than the manufacturer’s recommendations. Compare shop maintenance schedules with those recommended in your owner’s manual. Ask the repair shop to explain – and make sure you understand – why it recommends service beyond the recommended schedule.

Warranties
What warranties and service contracts apply to vehicle repairs?

  • There is no “standard warranty” on repairs. Make sure you understand what is covered under your warranty and get it in writing.
  • Be aware that warranties may be subject to limitations, including time, mileage, deductibles, businesses authorized to perform warranty work or special procedures required to obtain reimbursement.
  • Check with the Federal Trade Commission or your state or local consumer protection agency for information about your warranty rights.

Service Contracts
Many vehicle dealers and others sell optional contracts – service contracts -issued by vehicle manufacturers or independent companies. Not all service contracts are the same; prices vary and usually are negotiable. To help decide whether to purchase a service contract, consider:

  • Its cost.
  • The repairs to be covered.
  • Whether coverage overlaps coverage provided by any other warranty.
  • The deductible.
  • Where the repairs are to be performed.
  • Procedures required to file a claim, such as prior authorization for specific repairs or meeting required vehicle maintenance schedules.
  • Whether repair costs are paid directly by the company to the repair shop or whether you will have to pay first and get reimbursed.
  • The reputation of the service contract company. Check it out with your state Attorney General’s office or local consumer protection agency.

How do I resolve a dispute regarding billing, quality of repairs or warranties?

  • Document all transactions as well as your experiences with dates, times, expenses, and the names of people you dealt with.
  • Talk to the shop manager or owner first. If that doesn’t work, contact your Attorney General or local consumer protection agency for help. These offices may have information on alternative dispute resolution programs in your community. Another option is to file a claim in small claims court. You don’t need an attorney to do this.

HEADING OFF PROBLEMS

The more you know about your vehicle, the more likely you’ll be able to head off repair problems. You can detect many common vehicle problems by using your senses: eyeballing the area around your vehicle, listening for strange noises, sensing a difference in the way your vehicle handles, or even noticing unusual odors.

Looks Like Trouble
Small stains or an occasional drop of fluid under your vehicle may not mean much. But wet spots deserve attention; check puddles immediately.

You can identify fluids by their color and consistency:

  • Yellowish green, pastel blue or florescent orange colors indicate an overheated engine or an antifreeze leak caused by a bad hose, water pump or leaking radiator.
  • A dark brown or black oily fluid means the engine is leaking oil. A bad seal or gasket could cause the leak.
  • A red oily spot indicates a transmission or power-steering fluid leak.
  • A puddle of clear water usually is no problem. It may be normal condensation from your vehicle’s air conditioner.

Smells Like Trouble
Some problems are under your nose. You can detect them by their odor:

  • The smell of burned toast – a light, sharp odor – often signals an electrical short and burning insulation. To be safe, try not to drive the vehicle until the problem is diagnosed.
  • The smell of rotten eggs – a continuous burning-sulphur smell – usually indicates a problem in the catalytic converter or other emission control devices. Don’t delay diagnosis and repair.
  • A thick acrid odor usually means burning oil. Look for sign of a leak.
  • The smell of gasoline vapors after a failed start may mean you have flooded the engine. Wait a few minutes before trying again. If the odor persists, chances are there’s a leak in the fuel system – a potentially dangerous problem that needs immediate attention.
  • Burning resin or an acrid chemical odor may signal overheated brakes or clutch. Check the parking brake. Stop. Allow the brakes to cool after repeated hard braking on mountain roads. Light smoke coming from a wheel indicates a stuck brake. The vehicle should be towed for repair.
  • A sweet, steamy odor indicates a coolant leak. If the temperature gauge or warning light does not indicate overheating, drive carefully to the nearest service station, keeping an eye on your gauges. If the odor is accompanied by a hot, metallic scent and steam from under the hood, your engine has overheated. Pull over immediately. Continued driving could cause severe engine damage. The vehicle should be towed for repair.

Sounds Like Trouble
Squeaks, squeals, rattles, rumbles, and other sounds provide valuable clues about problems and maintenance needs. Here are some common noises and what they mean:

Squeal – A shrill, sharp noise, usually related to engine speed:

  • Loose or worn power steering, fan or air conditioning belt.

Click – A slight sharp noise, related to either engine speed or vehicle speed:

  • Loose wheel cover.
  • Loose or bent fan blade.
  • Stuck valve lifter or low engine oil.

Screech – A high-pitched, piercing metallic sound; usually occurs while the vehicle is in motion:

  • Caused by brake wear indicators to let you know it’s time for maintenance.

Rumble – a low-pitched rhythmic sound.

  • Defective exhaust pipe, converter or muffler.
  • Worn universal joint or other drive-line component.

Ping – A high-pitched metallic tapping sound, related to engine speed:

  • Usually caused by using gas with a lower octane rating than recommended. Check your owner’s manual for the proper octane rating. If the problem persists, engine ignition timing could be at fault.

Heavy Knock – A rhythmic pounding sound:

  • Worn crankshaft or connecting rod bearings.
  • Loose transmission torque converter.

Clunk – A random thumping sound:

  • Loose shock absorber or other suspension component.
  • Loose exhaust pipe or muffler.

Feels Like Trouble
Difficult handling, a rough ride, vibration and poor performance are symptoms you can feel. They almost always indicate a problem.

Steering

  • Misaligned front wheels and/or worn steering components, such as the idler or ball joint, can cause wandering or difficulty steering in a straight line.
  • Pulling – the vehicle’s tendency to steer to the left or right – can be caused by something as routine as under-inflated tires, or as serious as a damaged or misaligned front end.

Ride and Handling

  • Worn shock absorbers or other suspension components – or improper tire inflation – can contribute to poor cornering.
  • While there is no hard and fast rule about when to replace shock absorbers or struts, try this test: bounce the vehicle up and down hard at each wheel and then let go. See how many times the vehicle bounces. Weak shocks will allow the vehicle to bounce twice or more.
  • Springs do not normally wear out and do not need replacement unless one corner of the vehicle is lower than the others. Overloading your vehicle can damage the springs.
  • Balance tires properly. An unbalanced or improperly balanced tire causes a vehicle to vibrate and may wear steering and suspension components prematurely.

Brakes
Brake problems have several symptoms. Schedule diagnosis and repair if:

  • The vehicle pulls to one side when the brakes are applied.
  • The brake pedal sinks to the floor when pressure is maintained.
  • You hear or feel scraping or grinding during braking.
  • The “brake” light on the instrument panel is lit.

Engine
The following symptoms indicate engine trouble. Get a diagnosis and schedule the repair.

  • Difficulty starting the engine.
  • The “check engine” light on the instrument panel is lit.
  • Rough idling or stalling.
  • Poor acceleration.
  • Poor fuel economy.
  • Excessive oil use (more than one quart between changes).
  • Engine continues running after the key is removed.

Transmission
Poor transmission performance may come from actual component failure or a simple disconnected hose or plugged filter. Make sure the technician checks the simple items first; transmission repairs normally are expensive. Some of the most common symptoms of transmission problems are:

  • Abrupt or hard shifts between gears.
  • Delayed or no response when shifting from neutral to drive or reverse.
  • Failure to shift during normal acceleration.

  • Slippage during acceleration. The engine speeds up, but the vehicle does not respond.

TROUBLE SHOOTING

Car trouble doesn’t always mean major repairs. Here are some common causes of trouble and techniques to help you and your technician find and fix problems:

  • Alternator – Loose wiring can make your alternator appear defective. Your technician should check for loose connections and perform an output test before replacing the alternator.
  • Battery – Corroded or loose battery terminals can make the battery appear dead or defective. Your technician should clean the terminals and test battery function before replacing the battery.
  • Starter – What appears to be a defective starter actually may be a dead battery or poor connection. Ask your technician to check all connections and test the battery before repairing the starter.
  • Muffler – a loud rumbling noise under your vehicle indicates a need for a new muffler or exhaust pipe.
  • Tuneup – The old-fashioned “tuneup” may not be relevant to your vehicle. Fewer parts, other than belts, spark plugs, hoses and filters, need to be replaced on newer vehicles. Follow the recommendations in your owner’s manual.
Filed Under: Auto Tips
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